【老胡同:本色济南】 尚品本色和tata哪个好

发布时间:2020-03-11 来源: 美文摘抄 点击:

  北京自然是中国胡同文化的代表。由于北京古时城建就有严格规划,所以胡同都比较直,纵横交织,从而构成了方方正正的北京城。由于住宅是坐北朝南的四合院,相互排比而组成胡同,所以东西向的胡同多,南北向的胡同少。而这种规划正是吸取历代帝都的建造经验,体现了中国历代建造城市的传统特色。
  济南地处北京腹地,是连接南北之要冲。随着北京政治地位的不断提高,济南的政治、经济和文化与北京联系也日益紧密。尤其到了元代,属元王朝的“腹里”地区,直隶于中书省。因此城市布局及街巷便以大都为模式。明初,曾置山东行省,济南始为山东首府,是山东布政使司、都指挥使司及按察使司驻地。从此,济南成为山东地区的政治中心。济南城市地位的提高,使济南也与北京长得越来越像了,只是“块头”小了许多。也正是鉴于此,济南也有属于自己的胡同文化。
  作为府署之地,济南的老城布局自然固袭“左祖右社,面朝后市”的传统形式,但凭籍依山临水之地势,多了几许活泼与变化。以珍珠泉畔明德王府及清巡抚衙门为中心,东西轴线明晰。南北轴线止于城垣,不与南门相通。布政司、贡院、榜棚在西。按察司、济南府衙、历城县衙居东。各色庙宇、家祠等均环绕中心布置。府学文庙书院、说书场、戏园子则位于环境幽雅、风光秀丽的大明湖东南岸。军营、卫衙等则设在城南高地。济南的这些胡同,作为城市的骨架和脉络,形成了纵横交织的棋盘,或者说是城市之网,使偌大个城市规规矩矩、井然有序。
  比较而言,京城的胡同总是盛气凌人,宽敞笔直。最宽的胡同灵境胡同,最宽处达32米;最长的胡同东交民巷长达3公里。而历史上的济南从来不是一座大城市,少了些许都城的气派,加之由于受老城地势的限制,这里的街巷多狭窄而短促。于是,济南的胡同也就有了更多的平民化的质朴、亲近和随意。无论是县、府、督(省)三级衙署聚集地,还是寺、庙宫、观,贡院及各色书院、私塾、义学和学堂,以及多如牛毛的商业老字号,包括饭馆、书店、古玩店,还有会馆等等,从不显山露水。
  济南胡同的名字客观反映了济南厚重的历史和文化特征。济南胡同命名的方式主要有以下几种形式:以地形特色、景物命名,如墙缝巷(后称巷凤巷)、辘轳把子街、牛头巷、裤裆巷、棋盘街、东流水街、土街、斜街、城顶街等;以官府、军营旧址命名,如院前街、布政司街、按察司街、县前街、县后街、县西巷、县东巷、小王府街、旧军门巷、后营房街、营盘街;以建筑或遗址命名,如北门里街、贡院墙根街、钟楼寺街、礼拜寺巷、榜棚街、寿佛楼街、王府池子街、庠门里街、秋柳园街、阁子西街、汇泉寺街、东西花墙子街、西券门巷;以民间传说命名,如鞭指巷、金菊巷、起凤桥街;以人物姓氏命名,如司家码头街、华家井、罗家胡同、苗家巷、思敏街、徐家花园、柴家巷、郝家巷、魏家胡同;以商业故地和商业名称命名,如杉篙园街、剪子巷、篦子巷、花市街、马市街、茶巷、估衣市街等等。而其中有很多胡同以泉命名,与泉相伴,如趵突泉前街、王府池子街、江家池巷、平泉胡同、芙蓉街、马跑泉街、涌泉胡同等等,成为济南老街巷的一大特色。
  济南当年之所以申报国家级历史文化名城能取得成功,在历史街区方面主要有三条依据:一是以司里街与所里街为代表,与黑虎泉泉群结合在一起;二是以剪子巷为代表,与趵突泉水系融合;三是以芙蓉街为代表,与曲水亭、王府池子、芙蓉泉等结合在一起的历史风貌区。这三条著名的老街老巷代表着“家家泉水,户户垂柳”的泉城特色。而且在这些街巷上保存有大量明清以至民国时期的传统宅院,是自然与人文完美结合的典范。
  到了近代,尤其济南自开商埠以来,受外来文化的影响,济南市区也多了些上海里弄式的街巷。所谓里弄,是江南传统民居风格结合西方近代城市排联式建筑形式,由诸多单元组成的石库门或联体公寓组成的建筑群落,建筑群之间形成的狭窄通道,便被上海人称之为“里弄”,或谓之“弄堂”。老济南人则将这种与传统的胡同迥然有别的街道称之为“里分”。像魏家庄一带的民康里、普安里、长春里,纬四路的福东里,经七路附近的上海新村五里牌坊的福德里等等,也多了些整齐划一式的里弄式建筑。但除了民康里济南红万字会施医所和上海新村的建筑外,里分中的建筑总体上与上海滩上的石库门建筑大不相同,除少量建筑在外形、装饰、用材等细部彰显外来文化的特征外,绝大部分建筑与当地的四合院相互融合,中西合璧,显示出济南地域文化特有的朴实、内敛、包容、同化的气质。
  老城里的胡同虽离大街不远,却也有所阻隔,相对封闭,无车马之喧。宁静、安全与温暖是昔日胡同的一大特色。男女老幼,见面打招呼,聊个家常里短,都是那样轻松和惬意。到了冬天,老人们不约而同,提着马扎,在胡同口找个背风的墙根处坐下,尽享阳光的温暖。而一旦来了走街穿巷吹糖人的、卖糖葫芦的、磨剪子锵菜刀的,便引起胡同里孩子们的追逐和围观。
  胡同,是济南百姓昨日的温柔乡,是济南过往历史的载体和活化石,更是济南这座平民化城市最为本色、最为市井的写照。每条胡同都仿佛一位老者,有说不完道不尽的故事……
  
  Beijing is the representative of Chinese alley culture. Because the strict planning in urban construction in ancient times, all alleys are straight and intersecting thus constituting the square Beijing City. The houses are quadrangle courtyards that face south and are arranged in order, thus Alleys are formed, most of which run east to west, with fewer going north to south. Such kind of planning exactly adopts the construction experience of past dynasties, which embodies the traditional characteristics of city construction in the past dynasties of China.
  Located in the hinterland of Beijing, Jinan is a hub connecting south and north. Along with the improvement of Beijing’s political status, the connection between Jinan and Beijing grew increasingly closer in politics, economy and culture. Particularly in the Yuan Dynasty (A.D.1206~1368), Jinan was the “backland”, directly belonged to the secretariats. Therefore, the city layout and street design took Beijing as the model. In the early Ming Dynasty (A.D.1368~1644), Shandong Province was established, taking Jinan as its capital for the first time. It is also the place where Shandong Administrative Division, Military Command Office and Judicial Office stood. From then on, Jinan became the political center of Shandong Province. The improving position helped Jinan to keep in step closely with Beijing and be increasingly similar except that the area for Jinan is smaller than Beijing. For this reason, Jinan has developed an alley culture with its own features.
   As the capital city, Jinan old city pattern inherits the traditional form. But it becomes lively and flexible due to its embracing mountains and waters. The east-west axis is distinct, taking Mingde Mansion and Governor Yamen of the Qing Dynasty (A.D.1644~1911) as its center. The south-north axis ends at the city wall, but not connects with the south gate. To the west are Buzhengsi, Gongyuan, and Pangpeng; to the east are Anchasi, Jinan Prefecture and Licheng County. All various temples and family ancestral halls are designed surrounding the center. The Fuxue Wenmiao College, story-telling field and theatre are located in the southeast bank of the Daming Lake which possesses quiet environment and beautiful scenery. The Military Camp and Yamen (government office in feudal China) stand at highland in the south of the city. As the framework of Jinan, the alleys form an interweaving chessboard or city network, which contributes to the orderliness of such a big city.
  Comparatively speaking, a Beijing alley is always domineering, spacious and straight. Lingjing Alley, the widest one in Beijing, is 32m wide at the maximum; and Dongjiaominxiang, the longest one, is 3km long. However, the building of each quadrangle courtyard is extremely particular about the strict social strata. Just examining every gate tower facing the alley you can get knowledge of the host’s social status. However Jinan has never been a large city in history so she lacks the style required of a capital city.

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