水做的古城_水西古城

　　水是人类生存之命脉,是城市的灵魂。古代建城时一般都是先行开河,然后依照河水的来龙去脉进行谋划,布街辟路,修房建舍。丽江、苏州、济南古城无一例外,它们都是中国古代城建之法的活化石。
　　
　　济南离苏州不近,距丽江更远。但这三座城市,却都水系发达,流水潺潺,有着一样的柔情与娇美。
　　水是人类生存之命脉,是城市的灵魂。古代建城时一般都是先行开河,然后依照河水的来龙去脉进行谋划,布街辟路,修房建舍。丽江、苏州、济南古城无一例外,它们都是中国古代城建之法的活化石。
　　丽江位于“彩云之南”的高原上,青山绿水环绕,终年积雪的玉龙雪山像一架巨大的屏风,阻挡着北面的风,即使是冬季,这里也温暖如春。发源于城北象山脚下的玉泉河水分为支河、中河、西河三道清流汇入丽江的大研古镇,又分成无数支流,形成了密如蛛网的水系,几乎每条街道都伴有潺潺流水。房舍随形就势,枕水而建。灰瓦、土坯墙、木结构的民居都不高,多为一两层,因而房舍虽然密集,却并不觉得拥挤。
　　街道更是不拘于工整而自由分布,曲曲折折,灵活多变,宽不过三五米,窄处仅一二米。街面用玉龙雪山采来的五彩石铺就,岁月已将这些石板磨砺得光滑如镜,色彩斑斓。主街傍水,小巷临渠,300多座古石桥将连接着古镇迷宫一般的条条街巷。清凌凌的河水随街绕巷,穿墙过屋,贯通全城,滋润万家,形成了“家家门前绕水流,户户屋后垂杨柳”的诗画意境。有人将这里誉为“高原姑苏”一点也不夸张。
　　据说,丽江古城被列入世界文化遗产目录是以全票通过的。专家们评价说,丽江古城把经济和战略重地与崎岖的地势巧妙地融合在一起,真实、完美地保存和再现了古朴的风貌。尤其重要的是,丽江还拥有古老的供水系统,这一系统纵横交错、精巧独特,至今仍在有效地发挥着作用。
　　真正的姑苏城,与丽江大不相同,少了丽江的质朴与粗放,多了许多的精致与婉约。而十分相似的,这座太湖之滨、运河沿岸的“东方威尼斯”拥有更加完备的水系,城内仅桥梁就达168座。正如唐代诗人杜荀鹤诗中描绘的一样:“君到姑苏见,人家尽枕河;古宫闲地少,水巷小桥多。”
　　这座小桥流水、粉墙黛瓦、名园遍布的城市,最能与“柔美”这个词配得上。街河相依,小桥飞架,蜿蜒伸展的窄窄石板路两侧,是鳞次栉比的枕河人家,多为老宅古院。烟雨蒙蒙的气息,春来江水的景象,丁香花般的江南女子,乃至隔壁弄堂里货郎的抑扬顿挫的叫卖声,一切恍如隔世,如同这座城市中400多眼古井,用了数千年,依然清澈而深邃,这便是姑苏城特有的水乡况味。
　　近三十年,苏州巨变,经济突飞猛进,领跑江苏,紧盯上海,城市规模不断扩张。苏州古城也早已不是小家碧玉。然而在整体上出现残损的古城肌体,却仍然保留着相对完好的局部区域,传递着古城特有的历史文化信息。原有的旧街巷、老水系和传统民居得到了细心的呵护,小桥、流水、园林、人家等元素所构成的“苏州风格”依然活灵活现。
　　苏州政府曾下大力气保护了一条具有800年历史的古老水街――平江路。平江路保护工程,主打“修旧如旧”这张牌,沿街不少老宅被用作酒吧、会所,并不张扬的外表悄悄掩隐在木制门板之内,乍看起来与普通民居并无二致,只有从精致的雕花门廊上可以窥出些许端倪。这既保住了市巷旧貌,又更大限度地满足了当下人们的审美和消费需求。因而,平江路得到了联合国教科文组织颁发的2005年度亚太地区文化遗产保护荣誉奖。
　　济南自是不言而喻的“泉城”。趵突泉不仅领衔“七十二名泉”,还成为泺水之源。众多的泉水还成为护城河、圩子河、乃至小清河的水源补给地。百处名泉发端于大城市,在中国乃至世界上很是罕见,更是丽江和苏州所缺少的。
　　与苏州相仿,历经现代化风潮冲击的济南,自宋代设府以来所形成的2.6平方公里的府城格局没有大的变化。虽然近两年伴随着棚户区改造,城内大量历史街区消失,古城风貌有些支离破碎,但以芙蓉街、金菊巷、平泉胡同、王府池子街、起凤桥街、辘轳把子街、曲水亭街、庠门里街、东花墙子街、将军庙街、寿康楼街、双忠祠街、西公界街为代表的老街老巷还在,状元府、题壁堂戏楼、都城隍庙等老建筑还在。正是它们顽强地支撑着济南府城的脊梁,也成为这座中国历史文化名城为数不多的城市地标。更难能可贵的是,尚存的这些老街陋巷,有些是临水而建的水街,最能体现济南专属的城市特色和“文化基因”。大明湖新区的建成,护城河的通航,也使济南古城越来越有些江北水乡妩媚多姿、楚楚动人的样子。
　　一座可爱的城市都会有自己的特色和立足之本。在这里,我无意将济南与丽江和苏州比个高下。但是,在即将开始的“明府城”的改造中,济南应该站在时尚与历史的交叉点上,运用国际的眼光与视野,细心打造属于济南的新天地。
　　
　　It is self evident that Jinan is a city of springs. The Baotu Spring is not only the head of the Seventy-two Springs, but also the source of the Luoshui River. Many springs become the water supply of the City Moat, Yuzi River and Xiaoqing River. It is rarely seen that many springs originate from one large city, which is also absent in Lijiang River and Suzhou. Characterized by the features of ‘A lake surrounded by lovely lotuses and weeping willows; A city embraced by picturesque mountains and enchanting lake’ and the city style of ‘Springs and weeping willows in every family’, Jinan--the ancient city, has become a North Jiangnan with Spirit rarely seen in northern China.
　　Like Suzhou, although weathered the winds and rains of modernization, the 2.6 kilometer-city pattern of Jinan formed in Song Dynasty when the city was founded, has not changed so much. Accompanied by the two-year Shanty Town Renovation, many historical blocks were disappearing and the ancient city style was broken up. But the ancient blocks and alleys represented by the Lotus Street, Golden Aster Alley, Pingquan Lane, Wangfu Pool Street, Qifengqiao Street, Lulubazi Street, Qushui Pavilion Street, Xiangmenli Street, Donghuaqiangzi Street, General Temple Street, Shoukanglou Street, Shuangzhongci Street and the Xigongjie Street are still there. And the old buildings such as the the Zhuangyuan Mansion, the Tibitang Drama Building, the Duchenghuang Temple and so on are still in existence.
　　They doggedly prop up the ridgepole of the capital city and become one of the few landmarks for this Chinese historical and cultural city. What is more commendable is that the presently existing ancient streets and alleys including some water streets built up besides rivers can mostly embody the unique feature and the cultural genes of Jinan. The completion of the New Area of Daming Lake and the opening of the City Moat make the ancient city―Jinan wear an increasingly charming and appealing look as the Water Town in Northern China.
　　A lovely city owns its distinguishing feature and foothold. Here I don’t want to compare Jinan with Lijiang River and Suzhou, nor advocate the action of blind imitation with ludicrous effection. However, during the coming renovation of the so-called Mingfu City, we should take fashion and tradition into consideration with international vision and view; boldly borrow the ideas and experience of Lijiang River and Suzhou in their city renovation projects. And we also need to attentively build up a completely new world unique to Jinan with scientific preparation and elaborate plan, try our best to reserve the essence of traditional culture as much as possible, and create no fake ones. By reserving more classic works and less regrets, we will create a bright future for our lovely hometown.

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