[“不老部落”的“不老”传奇] 不老部落

　　“找一个机会,与山单独相处。山是需要慢慢寻访、静静对话的。山,是大地的祭坛。不老部落,有着泰雅族不老的传奇⋯⋯” 　　这是台湾不老部落的一首美妙的不老的歌。
　　聆听着欣赏着不老的歌,用心感受着“不老部落”,是一件很有意思的事情。
　　寻着不老的根须静静而细心地探去,就会发现,泰雅族是台湾原住民的一个古老的族群,如果笼统上区分的话,应当归属于颇具名气的“高山族”。在台湾14个少数民族中,泰雅族就人数而言,仅次于阿美族,算得上是原住民族中的第二大族了。
　　古老的泰雅族的族名Atayal很有趣也很有血性。它的原意是“真人”或者“勇敢的人”的意思。根据泰雅族的传说,他们的祖先最早是起源于中央山脉大霸尖山一带的白石山。白石山的壮观和辉煌成就了泰雅族的历史和未来。后来有人说,大约是18世纪的时候,泰雅族的祖先们就开始分别往台湾的西北方向、东部及西南方向分散迁移。至于当时泰雅族的祖先们为什么作出这样的决定,没有人告诉后人,也没有任何文字的记载和流传。若干年以后,到了21世纪的今天,泰雅族的分布区域是在台湾北部的中央山脉的两侧,以及花莲、宜兰等山区。现在看来,泰雅族的居住地域内高山相当多,比如插天山、栖兰山、合欢山、大霸尖山、奇莱山等等都是。而区域内的河川则有新店溪、大甲溪、秀姑峦溪等等等等。高山和大河是泰雅族生命中不可缺少的部分。
　　作为台湾著名的少数民族之一,泰雅族和大陆众多的少数民族一样,也有着自己非常明显的个性。
　　“不老不老”就是泰雅族的精与气。而勇敢和善良、勤劳与执着则是他们的本质。
　　有意思极了,宜兰县大同乡汗溪村的潘崴说,我们不老部落的人非常淳朴,淳朴得令人不敢相信。如果有人故意扔一只死鸡在地里,主人认为这件事有霉气,会不要这片地的。
　　当然,这样的事情也不是对不老部落所有人都有作用的。如果他们发现有人故意在与不老部落作对或者捣乱什么的,那么,他们会毫不犹豫地去杀掉,在不老部落里叫作“出草”。“出草”是很恐怖而且非常残忍的,甚至无辜之人也很容易被“出草”。当然,“出草”的年轻人也会因此被部落的头领以及所有族人认定为已经成熟的男人,并且在脸部刺青,以示众人。当然,这些都已经是不老部落的历史。
　　潘崴是个27岁的小伙子,给人的印象是非常精明干练。他说他现在的主要工作是开车并负责接待来旅游访问的客人,相当于“外交部长”的角色。他还说他们的部落现在只有5户人家总共27个人。每天,大山醒来他们也醒来,溪流歌唱他们也歌唱,所有的人都集合在一起,听部落头领安排和分配给每个人一天所要做的事情。过去,不老部落的男人一般是狩猎或者耕种,现在则多了旅游接待。台湾旅游业的发展使他们走出了大山,接触到了大山以外的人群。世界的目光在这里聚集,他们的目光放开到世界。而不老部落里的女人,主要责任是生儿育女传宗接代,再就是做饭洗衣,特别是布织。
　　大山深处的台地上往往会有几间木屋出现。木屋里的织布机一律是简易的手工操作。妇女们席地而坐,两腿是直伸着的,双脚紧紧地蹬着眼前织机的木椽,腰里则系着拉带,拉带再连着木椽,于是织机就有了平摆的经纬,有了经来纬往的无限运动,五颜六色的丝线就在女人们灵巧的手里梭飞梭舞,每日里,这种运动,这种场面都如仙女挥虹将小小的木屋膨胀,没有嘈杂的隆隆机声,也没有无边的喧闹,每一件作品都是艺术,头带啦,腰带啦,背篼啦,桌布啦,等等等等,精美漂亮得让人眼花缭乱。
　　其实,不老部落的生活本来就已经让外边人的眼花缭乱了,同时也让外边的人实在是难以忘却。不老部落的人总是那样的好客。任何人不经允许就可以随便到不老部落的人家里打开冰箱拿东西享用。与客人一见面,就可以喝上他们用小米酿造的米酒,香甜的小米酒非常容易醉人。有意思的是,即使酒量比较大的人,如果不小心也很容易被小米酒醉倒。按不老部落的人客气话来说,这叫做“人不自醉酒醉人”。
　　是的,到不老部落家里做客,都会有一个一见如故的感觉,都会有一个一醉方休的记忆。大口大口吃着用竹杆挑着烤熟的滴着油香的山羊肉,大口大口喝着米酒甚至喝着男女交杯酒,欢快地跳着永远不老的直至涅的舞蹈,同时也就这样向世人证明着不老部落的“不老”传奇。
　　
　　“Please find an opportunity to spend time with the mountains. The mountains need you to seek them slowly and develop quiet dialogues. The mountains are the altars of the land. The Taiya Nationality as a never ageing tribe has a never ageing legend…”
　　Exploring their never ageing roots, you will find that the Taiya Nationality is an ancient local tribe in Taiwan, which is generally assigned to the famous Gaoshan Nationality. Among the 14 minorities in Taiwan, in terms of population, the Taiya Nationality is second only to the Aqiang Nationality. Therefore, it is the second largest native nationality in Taiwan.
　　As one of the famous minor nationalities in Taiwan, just like the multitudes of minor nationalities on the mainland of China, the Taiya Nationality has its own remarkable personality.
　　“Never ageing” is the essence of the Taiya Nationality and brave, kind, hardworking and persistence are their natural character.
　　Pan Wei is a 27-year-old who looks very clever and able. He said his job was to be responsible for driving vehicles to receive the tourists visiting his club. So his role was similar to the “Foreign Secretary.” He said their tribe had five households comprised of 27 people. Every day they woke up when the mountains woke up. They sang songs when the rivers sang songs. All people gathered together to listen to the tribal head arranging the work they would do during the entire day. In the past, men of the Taiya Nationality were usually engaged in hunting or cultivation. Nowadays they are engaged in tourism reception. The development of tourism in Taiwan has enabled them to come out of the mountains and have opportunities to make contact with people beyond the mountains. While the eyes of the world are focused on them, they extend their gaze to the outside world. Women of the tribe are responsible for producing offspring, cooking meals, washing clothes and weaving fabrics.
　　As a guest at the home of a Taiya family, one will feel as if visiting an old friend. Eating roast mountain goat mutton, drinking rice alcohol and following the traditional Taiya dancing, one will feel the never ageing legend of the never ageing tribe of the Taiya Nationality.

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